Silence, la vía más difícil de la historia (por ahora)

Por Marc Fontrodona SILENCE LA VÍA MÁS DIFÍCIL DE LA HISTORIA ...por ahora

[{"selector":"#anim-dfe89537-61a3-43f1-9c9a-ae25a334e425 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-7653b24d-b95c-4723-9000-30e5a607d8f8","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] El 3 de septiembre del 2017, Adam Ondra encadena Silence tras 4 años de trabajo. Nadie ha logrado repetirla.

[{"selector":"#anim-26219de8-9f0e-42ed-ade8-1173a2a3cde8 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-55bb1b54-1a2b-4ed1-a193-d1f1160d8192","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] Propuso 9c, el grado más alto de la escala francesa. Solamente esta vía de Flatanger (Noruega) tiene este grado confirmado.

[{"selector":"#anim-6a0b9afd-881e-4965-93f0-57f86bb3449c [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-32546051-c7d2-4e70-85d7-4b621296674c","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] Son 45 metros sin margen de error, un inicio con rodilla invertida extrema, movimientos antinaturales, sin reposo…

[{"selector":"#anim-ce54b767-5a8c-4a78-9f53-465bf3b392c0 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-f7d34a4a-045b-4c16-bb1b-5952711fb023","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] Para lograr encadenarla estuvo dos años ensayando los movimientos por separado con réplicas exactas.

[{"selector":"#anim-0e28e9ba-8363-46fe-b3a9-79106a1fbc08 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-c7ab7dc9-f731-4f85-af11-0a76d6f3b3da","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] Un reposo cabeza abajo de 3 segundos fue clave. Y también la ayuda de un fisioterapeuta especializado.

[{"selector":"#anim-f7a205f8-b6e8-4ba0-bbd7-9859aa259d85 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-22b1aeb7-b5d1-4f78-8ced-8f28bd2c3af3","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] Otros escaladores como Stefano Ghisolfi, Magnus Midtbø o Sébastien Berthe la han probado, pero únicamente han logrado secciones sueltas.

[{"selector":"#anim-a4b76be4-2fd2-4312-9edb-537b53598ad1 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-62fd28f7-d340-4619-93c6-380d7a19a182","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] En 2025, Sébastien Berthe propuso un método diferente para la rodilla invertida.

[{"selector":"#anim-30639502-1038-4126-941b-9bfcc6b98d81 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-ff02be42-00ec-40ca-a0b7-5ae2ef219222","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] A día de hoy sigue siendo la única vía 9c con reconocimiento real, porque nadie discute a Adam Ondra.

[{"selector":"#anim-77717678-e095-4c17-b004-f763c1bd3344 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-cf788228-fd80-4a73-a0f4-31b7e1162c71","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] También están DNA (Seb Bouin, 2022) y B.I.G. (Jakob Schubert, 2023), a la espera de repeticiones -quizás de Ondra- que las confirmen.

[{"selector":"#anim-d940ef98-76d1-4e0d-804a-99a37573163c [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-494c9233-1d1e-41e4-887c-d3fdc7893284","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] Así que hasta que alguien demuestre lo contrario, el límite técnico, físico y mental de la escalada se llama Silence (y Adam Ondra).

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